Zurich – People who know me, know that I love autumn because it is the time of the year when the “Metzgete” begins. In older times the tradition in Switzerland was to slaughter the animals in autumn and organize a big feast with the family. The meat of the animal – all of it “nose to tail” is then used to make (blood and liver) sausages, ribs, bacon, ham, etc. You can also eat the nose, ear and the tail but I don’t like it too much. The meat comes with Sauerkraut or similar fermented vegetables, apples or pears and potato rösti and lot more. In the Köchlistube, I was a few years ago already for Metzgete, they do a very good Metzgete. This year it was even better than previous years. What I personally like a lot is the rustic atmosphere and that the dishes are without much “chichi”. After the great gluttony, there was a Vermicelle (made from mashed chestnuts, in the shape of spaghetti with a hit of kirsch schnaps) for dessert on the menu…..one of my absolute favorite desserts, so I had to have it too.
I recommend to go in a group so you can try out a little bit of everything.
Zurich – As my travel activities are currently restricted due to Corona, I wanted to travel to one of my favourite countries – Argentina – at least for culinary reasons. It has been less than 11 months since my last visit and I miss the good meat and empanadas a lot. The restaurant “Ojo de Agua” (n “ojo de agua” is a cave or hole – often very deep – in a salt lake. It can be seen in the Argentinean Puna.) has been around for a while in Zurich and is owned by Dieter Meier, one of the founders of the music group YELLOW (The race). The menu is described very quickly: At noon there is roast beef or tatar and in the evening entrecôte or tatar 🙂 As a starter you can have a mixed plate or empanadas – of course also filled with meat.
We were there at noon and took two empanadas to start and one tartar and a portion of roast beef each. It was really very good (only the tartar was a bit too cold for my taste). I felt transferred to a restaurant in the middle of Buenos Aires old town – just as I wanted to. I will probably go again soon in the evening and enjoy one of the good argentine red wines with the meat. It was a coincidence that our visit to the Ojo de Agua coincided with the funeral of the football legend of Diego Maradona “El Pibe de Oro”, as you can see on the front page of the Neue Zürcher Zeitung. Rest in peace Diego.
It has been an unbelievable 5 years since I was last inAuGust (Blog). Why it took so long, I don’t know. I was longing for a place to have traditional “Metzgete” and then I remembered AuGust. So I made a reservation for my hubby and me. We enjoyed the dinner a lot – it was simply super delicious. I had blood and liver sausage with sauerkraut and Rösti (hash brown, very crispy on the outside and juicy inside, as it has to be). Hubby chose “Züri Gschnätzlets” (sliced veal and kidneys in cream sauce) with Rösti. If you’re a meat lover, you absolutely must visit this restaurant in Zurich. Before or after your visit to the restaurant, it’s worth having a cocktail in the adjacent bar of the Hotel Widder. There is often live piano music. Make sure to reserve your table.
The Hacienda Colomé (by Swiss entrepreneur Donald M. Hess) is not only worth a visit for its wines, but for the special place. The next small village is about 45 minutes away by car. From Salta you can do the zigzagging roads by going over the top of a pass (Cuesta del Obispo) and “Parque Nacional de los Cardones” about 5 to 6 hours, depending on road conditions (partially dirt roads). This means that one does not go there spontaneously for a winetasting. For a long time we had the idea to include the Bodega Colomé on our next trip to Argentina because we know friends that stayed there. Since the hotel has only 9 rooms, this was the first thing we booked for our trip and planned everything else including flights only afterwards. It was really worth it. It is a place with a certain magic. You can relax, get some peace and quiet, do walks and besides; taste the best wines of the region. We spent New Year’s Eve at the bodega and had a really wonderful evening with people from France, Brazil, Switzerland and Argentina. Bodega Colomé grows their own fruits, vegetables and herbs in their garden and cooks only regional and seasonal meals. The staff conjured up a delicious multi-course menu for the guests that evening, including wine pairing. At 12 o’clock we all toasted to the new year on the terrace under the roof of stars and there was – still on top – a huge dessert buffet. Those who make it to Colomé should stay at least two or three days, as the James Tyrell Art Museum is also very worth seeing.
After our long drive from Colome (near Molinos in the north) to Mendoza (1200 km in two days) we were looking forward to a bigger town and a restaurant where we might have pasta. We found it in La Lucia. The pasta AND also the meat from the charcoal grill were excellent. They also have a few tables on the terrace. But at 35 degrees celcius still in the evening, we preferred to sit inside. We drank a Malbec wine from the Bodega “El Enemigo”, which we had on our list to visit in two days.
For me personally this restaurant is one of the best in the world when it comes to meat dishes (Parillada). We have been there on one of our fomer trips to Buenos Aires. If you have never eaten meat in Argentina you might think I am exagerating and that there is good meat everywhere. For me Argentina has the perfect combination of very good quality meat (from the pampa), big charcoal grills, few salt, pieces under 300gr don’t even come on the table and as side dishes just fresh salad of tomatoes, lettuce or carrots and a good bottle of Malbec. What more do you need? Something that might be worth mentioning is the cooking level. The Argentineans tend to like the meat more well done. Therefore you should order your piece “jugoso” (medium/rate). Try also blood sausage (morcilla) or a piece other than the fillet, you will love it.
Well, officially you can reserve tables at Don Julio, but it is always booked out. You better try it at noon or in the evening rather early or very late after 11pm. Even if there are many tourists at this wonderful place it is worth a visit.