That is why I wanted to include this Osteria in our Italy culinary road trip. I was not disappointed and the diversion via Torino back home was worth it. Actually, I shouldn’t write about it here, because I think it is still an insider tip among the people of Torino 😉 The crew welcomed us extremely friendly and patiently explained the food and wine list. We decided on a Vitello Tonnato – excellent – as a starter. As primi I chose homemade taglierini with porcini mushrooms. As main course I absolutely wanted to try the guinea fowl with grapes. Everything was incredibly good. I can’t wait to come back to Turin to dine there again.
Olevano Romano – Have you ever heard of Olevano Romano? Me neither – before I visited this lovely town in the heart of Italy.
This year, we finally did our road trip through Italy. The way was the goal and in order to plan this trip in a culinary optimal way, we also kept to the list of the awarded “Trattorie” in Italy: https://premiatetrattorieitaliane.eu/ I made it already to 6 of the 13 locations. I would really like to emphasize the Trattoria “Sora Maria e Arcangelo” in Olevano Romano. Our expectations were exceeded. The restaurant is homely and the service very friendly and helpful in choosing the dishes and wines. Unfortunately, this also led to the fact that we totally overeaten ourselves, especially with 2 (!) desserts. Luckily we were there for lunch, so we could digest in the afternoon and evening with a walk through the beautifully decorated village.
As a greeting from the kitchen came a fried piece of mozzarella, very tasty. Then we chose fried stuffed courgette flowers (fior di zucca), which is very typical for this region. A plate of raw ham Prosciutto di Bassiano (http://www.prosciuttodibassiano.it/prosciutto-di-bassiano/prosciuttodibassianoriserva), figs and Falia di Pupillo (bread between pizza and normal bread). Simply delicious! For primi, I chose the house specialty Cannelloni and my hubby the pasta with mushrooms, mountain mint (mentuccia) and parmesan. I think one of the best pasta dishes I ever tasted. It sounds very simple, but sometimes the simple things are the most difficult.
We have discovered a new grape variety for us; the Cesanese. It is cultivated in the region around Rome. The wine from Abbia Nova https://www.abbianova.com/ was a perfect match for the meal. For dessert we chose blackberry (called “more” in Italian) with whipped cream and cat’s tongue biscuits and as a second dessert a millefeuille with ice cream.
Be sure to reserve a table early enough in this wonderful restaurant. I would love to go there again today.
In this Corona summer I have not yet been abroad….as many other people around the world too I guess. So I thought I need at least some culinary short trip to Italy. Santo Brevitore in Zurich is the right choice for this. The restaurant is located in the middle of Zurich Wiedikon. The menu card will treat every taste but will melt the heart of every pasta lover. So I just HAD to order the “Tris di pasta” three kinds of pasta on one plate. I can only say that the portion was huge but every gram was worth it. One pasta with mussels, one with minced meat and truffle, the third with some kind of Italian cream cheese….mouthwatering still when I think about it now. The appetizers and the wines are also worth the visit. The atmosphere is very relaxed, in summer you can also sit outside on the troittoir. On our Saturday evening out, an alphorn player (no joke) passed by and gave a short performance – in the middle of Zurich.
Valdenas Rhine gorge – The hotel “Gasthaus am Brunnen” in a 500 year old building is exceptional. It is far away from tourism and crowds of people. It has only 7 rooms and all of them are very different, simply furnished. The house is almost only made of wood and so the room smells wonderfully of wood, one can relax very well in this place.
Restaurant and Dinner
The restaurant in this hidden place is really fantastic. Meat, vegetables and dairy products are from the surroundings/region. The jam for breakfast and homemade and just very delicious. The great thing is that you can simply eat a main course or a whole menu with various delicacies, you always get full. In the afternoon you can drink coffee by the wooden well or have a cocktail in the lounge in the garden and watch the ducks from the farmer next door.
In the surroundings you can visit the Rhine Gorge or take a hike to Lake Cauma and/or Lake Cresta. The nature is beautiful and there is something for every fitness level.
The Hacienda Colomé (by Swiss entrepreneur Donald M. Hess) is not only worth a visit for its wines, but for the special place. The next small village is about 45 minutes away by car. From Salta you can do the zigzagging roads by going over the top of a pass (Cuesta del Obispo) and “Parque Nacional de los Cardones” about 5 to 6 hours, depending on road conditions (partially dirt roads). This means that one does not go there spontaneously for a winetasting. For a long time we had the idea to include the Bodega Colomé on our next trip to Argentina because we know friends that stayed there. Since the hotel has only 9 rooms, this was the first thing we booked for our trip and planned everything else including flights only afterwards. It was really worth it. It is a place with a certain magic. You can relax, get some peace and quiet, do walks and besides; taste the best wines of the region. We spent New Year’s Eve at the bodega and had a really wonderful evening with people from France, Brazil, Switzerland and Argentina. Bodega Colomé grows their own fruits, vegetables and herbs in their garden and cooks only regional and seasonal meals. The staff conjured up a delicious multi-course menu for the guests that evening, including wine pairing. At 12 o’clock we all toasted to the new year on the terrace under the roof of stars and there was – still on top – a huge dessert buffet. Those who make it to Colomé should stay at least two or three days, as the James Tyrell Art Museum is also very worth seeing.
A friend from Switzerland knows the wine region Mendoza (Maipu and Valle de Uco) very well. She was also the one who gave me the contact to Alejandro Vigil to book a table in the restaurant. The bodega was founded by Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena in 2009. I had already tasted the Malbec from El Enemigo wine in restaurants (for example La Lucia) before and was thrilled. So my anticipation was even greater. I was not disappointed at lunch and included tasting. It was an extraordinary visit with excellent food, wine and service. We were happy that we didn’t have to drive ourselves that day.
In order to get a table in the restaurant, one has to book early, preferably two or three months in advance. We had already made a reservation for the “El Enemigo” at noon the same day and therefore only did the tour and the tasting. I have rarely seen such an impressive bodega. It was only opened in 20016 and is one of six bodegas of Zuccardi wines. For the construction, natural materials from the surroundings were used, such as stones from the estate area. The cement tanks are built without “epoxy”. Piedra Infinita won the Great Wine Capitals Global Architecture award in 2016 and World’s Best Vineyard Award, for its overall Winery experience.
The tasting was great but again, a lot of wine to drink….If we manage to visit Mendoza again, we would probably also book a table at the restaurant, the meat on the BBQ looked mouthwatering.
On the way from Mendoza city to our hotel Gimenez Riili in valle de Uco we stopped at the Bodega Alfa Crux for our lunch including wine tasting (the restaurant was called O’Fournier, now apparently they have renamed it to Crux Cocina). A reservation is essential, because the restaurant has only room for about 20 people. The view of the mountains through the big windows and the pond around the restaurant are stunning. Also the food and of course the wines have impressed us and are still in best memory two months later. A must visit for the region.